You can always count of NYFW to get the momentum going for kicking off the fashion season, year on year. This season has seen some standout shows, from Michael Kors' 45th anniversary show to Collina Strada's fantasy escapism and Khaite's boldest take yet.

Khaite

The show framed the Khaite woman as a marker of mid-2020s polish and power. Tailoring and leather came softened by organza and lace, while references to F for Fake explored ideas of authenticity and taste. The boldest move? Deliberately wrinkled, sharply pointed footwear that could shift the silhouette conversation entirely. 

Calvin Klein Collection

Veronica Leoni looked to the late ’70s and early ’80s. Archival references underscored Klein’s clean sensuality - imagery that still feels potent in 2026. We saw modest draping, fluid skirts alongside precise tailoring and a leather bomber over black satin tuxedo. With renewed fascination around Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy’s minimalist wardrobe, the blueprint for modern Calvin may already be in plain sight.

Fforme

Fforme leaned fully into the art of dressing up this season, but did it the New York way - controlled, sharp, and understated. Sculpted gowns with molded drapery set the tone, while deconstructed smokings, reimagined with trailing satin details and precise layering, delivered the real impact. The outerwear was particularly strong with clean coats, winter whites and stripped-back daywear that felt confident. It was a collection rooted in polish.

Tibi

At Tibi, Amy Smilovic revisited her late ’90s uniform - Wall Street polish with an effortless edge - but filtered it through who she is now. The result was a sharper evolution featuring drop-crotch stirrup pants in athletic knits, long lean coats and clever layering pieces that shift with the wearer. Pieces that drove the collection included blazers that double as blouses to balloon trousers and apron skirts designed to be reworked on the body. Even the slingback heels came with adjustable straps - functional, considered, intentional. Smilovic closed with an olive skirt trimmed in horsehair ruffle - a reminder that Tibi’s restraint always leaves room for personality.

Kallmeyer

Daniella Kallmeyer continues to refine what minimalism means now - less blank slate, more quiet detail. This season, Art Deco geometry sharpened the line - pleated trousers cut with diagonal seams, lattice beadwork stitched onto tailoring and a flapper-leaning dress. Texture did the talking, from bouclé fused onto organza to a custom-developed faux shearling spun from virgin wool. Even the gilded jacquard jacket - a standout - was handled with restraint. The result was controlled, considered and subtly ornate without losing its edge.

Michael Kors

Celebrating his 45th anniversary, Kors proved that "New York Chic" isn’t a trend—it’s a lifestyle where your shearling coat is as sharp as your lawyer. It was a masterclass in dressing for a life that includes both a boardroom and a high-speed getaway car.

Diotima

Rachel Scott turned the runway into a "Femme Cheval" manifesto, blending ancestral Afro-Cuban symbolism with the kind of tailoring that makes a riding jacket feel like political armour. It’s rare to see clothes that are simultaneously this fluid and this intellectually free.

Altuzarra

Joseph Altuzarra gave us "Everyday Drama" via Almodóvar-inspired reds and floor-grazing flamenco skirts that moved like liquid. It was the perfect wardrobe for anyone whose daily routine involves a healthy dose of Spanish Renaissance intensity and very expensive knitwear.

Carolina Herrera

Wes Gordon turned the runway into a living gallery, casting actual artists to model sculptural calla lily prints and leopard jacquards. The message was clear: if you aren't dressing like you own the museum, you’re simply not trying hard enough.

Collina Strada

Titled "The World is a Vampire," the show featured Victorian ruffs, plant-based "Bio Fluff" furs, and airbag-sized shoulder poofs. It’s the only collection on earth that suggests the best way to survive the climate crisis is by looking like a very fashionable, very sustainable 19th-century goth.