Retinol is one of the buzziest skincare terms that’s been thrown around a lot longer than PDRN, face masks or any other trendy ingredient. It’s a mainstay, and for good reason. Retinol is a form of vitamin A that allows for a host of benefits for the user.

Up until your early 30s, your skin cells have a 28 days (or so) turnover. This allows for bouncy, firmer looking skin. However, as you age, this skin cell turnover drastically decreases, taking close to 50-70 days to fully regenerate. This slowdown is directly linked to the collagen decrease in your skin.

Applying collagen topically is not particularly beneficial, but the molecule size is just too large to be absorbed by your skin. Retinol signals for your skin to create more collagen in your skin; hence your skin begins to look firmer and younger.

This signalling and regeneration process takes close to 3-6 months for adequate results, with regular retinol use – but the result speaks for itself. Retinol is also a potent exfoliant, so if you suffer from clogged pores, uneven skin texture, or dullness, adding retinol into your nighttime routine addresses each of those skin concerns.

The being said, not all retinol is created equal. Derived from vitamin A, retinol is just one of the many different types of retinoids that are on the market. Retinoids are available in a few forms, from retinyl palmitate (a gentler retinoid), retinol (stronger, but more tolerable), retinaldehyde (potent, and stronger), and prescription strength retinoids, like adapalene or tretinoin – which are much, much stronger, and are designed to address severe acne issues. They could work fast but can also be very irritating for the skin.

The general rule for retinol is that you start low and slow to avoid any irritation, flaking or dryness and/or breakouts. There are things you can do to mitigate these effects.

Start with an over-the-counter low-strength retinol that you incorporate into your nighttime routine only once a week. Use a pea-sized amount, and as a safety, you can also use the sandwich method – where you apply a layer of moisturiser before and after the retinol application. You can very gradually increase the number of nights in a week you use retinol if you have no adverse effects.

As always – please patch test any skincare ingredient on your inner elbow to irritation or allergens BEFORE applying to your face. Always use a SPF50++++ in the morning following a retinol nighttime routine.

Stay tuned for our recommendations for which retinoids we recommend.