Simon Porte Jacquemus returned to the Musée Picasso this season with a collection shaped by precision, control, and a sharpened silhouette. The show was not about spectacle or sentiment, but about form and proportion.

The collection centred on a structured, mid-length tailoring story. Tailleur suits anchored the lineup, defined by fitted jackets with clean collars, softly rounded shoulders, and waists pulled in tight. Skirts fell to the mid-calf, flaring subtly through pleated hems that added movement without excess. The construction felt deliberate and measured, replacing the looseness and volume of recent seasons with something more exact.

Knitwear followed the same logic. Body-skimming dresses traced the figure closely, executed in smooth velvets, dense jerseys and textured fringes that animated the hemline. Polka dot finishes, fish scale motifs, and deep looped detailing added a point of interest to a striking silhouette. Leather also played a role, particularly in streamlined bomber jackets paired with narrow pencil skirts, the materials soft and pliable rather than rigid.

Accessories reinforced the mood. Oversized hats amplified the retro undertone, while models maintained an upright posture and a controlled walk which emphasised the clothes’ sculptural intent. On the menswear side, tailoring was relaxed but playful, satin smoking jackets appeared with abbreviated shorts, while blousons were finished with scattered embellishment and subtle textural contrast along with some equestrian touches.

The finale reintroduced rather risqué one-shouldered evening dress, its asymmetry and exposed line echoing the collection’s focus on strength through simplicity. Overall, this was a Jacquemus collection driven by discipline - one that placed cut, fabric, and proportion firmly at the centre of the conversation.