For fall 2026, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons framed clothing as a carrier of values - culture, intelligence, care - while acknowledging the unease of the moment we’re living in.

Staged inside a partially stripped building, the setting felt deliberately unsettled: elegant remnants clinging to exposed structure. That tension played out on the runway. Clothes appeared narrow, exacting, and restricting. Long, tubular coats fastened high on the chest were worn casually, hands sunk into pockets, as if treating severity with nonchalance. The silhouette was lean, standing apart from the bulk and volume dominating much of Milan this season.

Shirts arrived with cuffs deliberately distressed, marked as if by heat or time. Leather was creased and softened, not polished, while technical coats revealed tweed beneath abraded seams and elbows. These were clothes that embraced imperfection with intention.

Colour did much of the emotional work. Muted but unexpected shades - old rose, mauve, anise green, deep purple - disrupted the severity, offering moments of visual relief.

Styling leaned slightly off-centre: crushed caps attached to backs of jackets, bucket hats pinned against the body, utility capes layered over otherwise classical outerwear.

Throughout, the collection, Prada and Simons weren’t chasing the future so much as insisting on clarity within uncertainty. In a season dominated by excess, this was a reminder that intelligence in fashion often speaks most clearly when it’s uncomfortable.

Images courtesy Prada.