In 2023, Dr Ewoma, better known as @skndoctor on TikTok, very publicly disavowed glycolic acid in a viral TikTok moment, and sweared it off entirely, claiming it's no good for darker skin, also citing caution for those with melanin-rich skin. This viral moment sparked a larger conversation in the skincare industry about the effects of glycolic acid across skin tones.

Glycolic acid is one of those incredible ingredients that has great PR in the zeitgeist, everyone’s always talking about it, it’s always going to be that girl. It’s a great exfoliant, known for plumping skin, and has (subtle) brightening effects as well, and since it is mostly derived from sugarcane, it is also vegan in formulations most often. It falls into the AHA family of exfoliants, or the Alpha Hydroxy Acids, which works by dissolving the bond between oils and dead cells, and promotes cellular regeneration – making it a wonder ingredient for fine lines, acne, acne scarring and even hyperpigmentation.

However, it is a harsher, more unforgiving exfoliant, and has a lower molecular weight which penetrates deeper into your skin to even out texture. It is effective because it is strong.

Glycolic acid formulations in the market from skincare brands position the product to be used anywhere from a few times to a week, to daily – and therein is where the problem lies. For those of a richer skin complexion, looking to target hyperpigmentation, glycolic acid can be a powerful tool, but using it in the right formulation, and frequency, is essential. Over exfoliation can in turn cause breakouts and further hyperpigmentation.

Typically, glycolic acid over 7% is too harsh to use on the face but can be used as a body exfoliant. Anything under 7% is typically what you’d go for, once, perhaps twice a week.

Here’s a list of glycolic acid that are tried and tested by us, that we recommend. Rest assured, a lighter hand with this AHA is the key to unlocking its full potential.

1. Sunday Riley Good Genes Glycolic Acid

   

   
   

2. Paula’s Choice Daily Smoothing Treatment (5% Glycolic Acid)

   

   
   

3. Medik8 Sleep Glycolic

   

   
   

4. Alpha H Liquid Gold

   

   
   
   Image Courtesy @Skndoctor on TikTok.