Pharrell Williams continues to push Louis Vuitton menswear toward a very particular sweet spot via clothes that look reassuringly normal, then reveal themselves to be quietly engineered within an inch of their lives.

At first glance, this was a parade of classic menswear staples; sharp tailoring, neat outerwear, familiar proportions. Look closer, and almost everything had been tampered with. Jackets that behaved like technical shells. Tailoring that resists weather. Shirts that held their shape as if lightly reinforced. The idea wasn’t disruption, but upgrade.

The strongest moments came from this friction between tradition and function. Checked suits appeared elegant but improbably lightweight. Outerwear appears formal then transitions into a sporty look. Accessories followed suit: caps that folded, bounced back, and shrugged off water; shoes that read heritage but flexed like trainers. Even the leather goods leaned practical, designed to flip, adapt, or survive real use - a rare thing on a luxury runway.

There were flashes of indulgence - plush outerwear, richly worked fabrics, tactile surfaces - but they felt measured rather than loud. Branding, too, was relatively restrained on the clothing itself, as opposed to previous collections where the LV monogram took centre stage, allowing construction and material to do the talking, while bags and small accessories carried the recognisable Vuitton signatures.

What Williams seems to be arguing is that modern luxury isn’t about novelty or theatrics. It’s about access to better solutions, better fabrics, smarter construction, clothes that earn their place in a wardrobe rather than demand attention. Not futuristic or nostalgic - just menswear that’s been thought through.