There was a noticeable shift in mood at Schiaparelli this season. The control was still there - those razor-sharp silhouettes and impeccable construction haven’t gone anywhere - but Roseberry allowed the clothes to breathe, stretch, and misbehave a little. Think discipline with a pulse.

Tailoring led the charge. Classic couture shapes arrived tightly cut and unapologetically structured, then promptly disrupted. One severe suit bristled with spikes, turning something traditionally polished into something almost hostile. Elsewhere, fitted jackets and bustiers grew unexpected extensions - curves, tails, protrusions - that pushed the silhouette off balance in a way that felt intentional.

Roseberry stayed firmly in Schiaparelli territory, favouring animal instincts over romance. Feathered dresses sprouted wing-like forms from the back, jackets developed claws at the shoulders, and bodices sculpted the torso into something closer to armour than lingerie. The effect was powerful, a little unsettling, and very wearable for the right kind of woman.

And while the shapes were bold, the workmanship stayed laser-focused. Every feather, spike, and sculpted detail was executed with couture-level precision. Even the most dramatic pieces never slipped into costume; they held their structure, their purpose, and their authority.

What makes Schiaparelli work right now is this exact balance. The clothes aren’t trying to be liked. They’re made for women who enjoy dressing as a statement, who understand that fashion can be performance without being frivolous. There’s confidence built into every seam.

In a couture season that leaned heavily into nostalgia and restraint, Schiaparelli chose presence. Roseberry sharpened his perspective, and the result was a collection that felt self-assured, slightly wild, and very much alive.