Buccellati is back at Downtown Design Dubai with a room that feels more like a theatre set than a showroom. From 4 to 8 November, the house occupies a 97-square-metre space at Dubai Design District, booth C2, with Aquae Mirabiles, an installation first shown during Milan Design Week 2026 and later in Paris. This is the house’s second year at the fair, and this time the spotlight is on its silver Caviar collection, presented in a setting that sits somewhere between the ocean floor and an old Italian palazzo.

The journey begins in deep water. Two silver sturgeon sculptures from the Marina collection drift in a soft, suspended light, and visitors then move toward the heart of the room: a submerged banquet where a wave-shaped table displays the Caviar pieces. Watercolour panels by the British artist Luke Edward Hall cover the walls, tracing the history of caviar in Italy through allegorical figures and archival references. They range from ancient Roman records and papal cookbooks to the Renaissance feast Leonardo da Vinci designed for the wedding of Ludovico il Moro and Beatrice d’Este. The installation was conceived by Balich Wonder Studio and curated by Federica Sala, and it makes a broader argument: the story of Italian caviar is also a story about Italian art.

The silver

The installation centres on the Caviar collection, whose defining motif has long appeared in the house’s jewellery and silverware. Andrea Buccellati reworked the microsphere pattern into a three-dimensional surface of tiny silver spheres that echoes the texture of sturgeon roe and catches the light. The idea has a precedent in the Cratere delle Muse, which Gianmaria Buccellati made in 1981 from silver, gold, jade and sapphires.

At the fair, the range includes caviar spoons, trays, plates, ice buckets and bowls, set alongside Murano glassware and flutes. A complete flatware service, added recently, widens the offer. Each piece pairs a clear design with the traditional silversmithing methods the house is known for.

The jewellery

Buccellati also shows a selection of its jewellery. The Macri collection, a tribute to Gianmaria Buccellati, pairs gold surfaces with hand-engraved “rigato” lines. The new Torsadé pieces take their cue from a twisted-rope spiral, a pattern found across centuries of art and architecture, and set it with diamonds. The recent Muse collection borrows the Caviar motif in colour: its spherical rubies and tsavorites recall the micro-spheres of caviar. The Mosaico collection, inspired by Byzantine mosaics, arranges diamonds into dramatic compositions.

Q: The Aquae Mirabiles installation sounds incredibly imaginative. Could you walk us through the creative journey behind transforming the booth into an underwater world, and what drew you to collaborate with British artist Luke Edward Hall for this project?

A: The collection is called Caviar, so the inspiration came from the sea and the underworld. We wanted a room you enter entirely in blue, where you can almost smell the sea. Inside, you see a beautiful silver banquet, with the caviar collection, dolphins and more.

When Beatrice d’Este married, she hosted a huge silver banquet, one designed by Leonardo da Vinci. We wanted to recreate both the underworld and that banquet. Luke Edward Hall was a great choice. I love the way he draws and the way he uses watercolour, and it was the perfect way to represent the history of caviar in Italy.

Q: Buccellati has such a rich, century-old history in Milan. How do you find the balance between honouring that heritage and speaking to the evolving tastes of a new generation of clients?

A: It’s quite easy, because we are very consistent. We have a style, and we don’t follow trends or fashion. People who like our style can appreciate it for what we are: the amazing techniques we use, which are still unique, and a taste that transcends generations. It’s never out of fashion. That’s not quite the right word. It’s always current. My daughter wears a pearl ring that was my grandmother’s. It’s quite important, but when she wears it with jeans, it looks amazing.

Q: As a third-generation member of the founding family, how does your personal history influence your vision for the Maison, and what does it mean to keep the family spirit at the centre of the brand today?

A: Our mission is to be the guardian of the brand’s style. We are always careful to stay consistent with that style and with the message we send.

Q: We are thrilled to see Buccellati at Downtown Design Dubai. What makes the Dubai design community, or this specific fair, such a special platform for sharing the story of the Caviar collection and your broader work in the art and design world?

A: We took part in Design Week for the first time last year. We’re not especially well known in Dubai for our silver, but the response was a great success. We were very happy with it, so it felt natural to return this year with a new collection.